Mörlenbach: The Gateway to the Odenwald from the West

When you start exploring what towns to visit in Germany, it is unlikely that Mörlenbach will jump out at you immediately. And that’s OK. It’s a true gem within the Odenwald region and once you get to explore the area, you will enjoy the relaxed vibe. It’s not overrun by tourists and has so many beautiful sights to offer. It is also rich in history that is worth looking into.

Whether you decide to go for a nature walk at the Tromm, scope out the small downtown area, or visit the newly built “alla hopp!”*, this town is a true insider tip for those who want to get to know the Odenwald, one area at a time. If you understand German, the town’s website is a great resource. There are many things to see and a few suggestions are listed at the end of the post.

*”alla hopp!” is reference to what regionals like to say when it’s “time to go” or to offer some encouragement like “let’s do this.”

Why Mörlenbach?

Because it holds some significance as one of the first towns when arriving from the west and because this town holds some sentimental value for me personally.

It is the place I call “Heimat,” a term difficult to translate because it is more than “just” a place you call “home.” Heimat is a combination of all childhood memories tied to specific places, people, and experiences in one particular area combined with the love and happiness felt toward it all.

Check out this hiking video (it’s narrated in English!) to get a sense of what my childhood looked like. I bet you agree that it’s not hard to see how charming Mörlenbach is! Around 1:35 min, you can catch a glimpse of the Waldsee in Gross-Breitenbach, a place I used to go to a lot as a child. And here’s a neat areal of the town and surrounding areas.

With its roughly 4 ½ square miles, it is rather small but features nearly one square mile of forests.

Unfortunately, the “H” is a bit cut off but here I am with my friend from childhood days!

Where is it?

In a way, Mörlenbach serves as a gateway to the Odenwald from the east because the Saukopftunnel leads directly from Weinheim to Mörlenbach (unless you make a turn back west which leads to Birkenau). With this video you can catch a ride through the tunnel, first going east, then heading back west.

Situated along the B38 (a major thoroughfare from Weinheim leading from the west into the Odenwald), Mörlenbach is only about 25 km north of Heidelberg and 30 km northeast of Mannheim. It is along the river Weschnitz that my friends and I would sometimes play and catch and release frogs.

You could take B38 all the way through the Odenwald from (or to) Mannheim to (or from) Rossdorf close to Darmstadt in the north. While neither Mannheim nor Weinheim are part of the Odenwald, Mörlenbach most definitely is.

What’s there to do while I’m in the area?

There are many things you can do and it’s easy to spend some days exploring the area. Depending on the time of the year, you may even be able to catch the “Abend der Blasmusik” in May or the Kerwe (a bit folk festival) in August.

To sum it all up, here are some things you can take a look at and do while you are in the area.

  • Tromm: it spans over 18 miles of hiking paths, connecting some towns (Check out this path you can access from Mörlenbach)
  • Waldsee, Gross-Breitenbach (info in German): a place I went quite often during my youth. Seemed like really far away but is ridiculously close at only 1.7 km (1.1 miles) away from the home I grew up in.
  • Juhöe: quite the adventurous drive coming from Mörlenbach and a must-do. Make sure you have a stomach made of steel or drive extremely slow. My mom liked to think of herself as a race-car driver…
  • Historic downtown, all within a few walking minutes from each other:
    • St. Bartholomaeus Kirche (church)
    • Altes Rathaus (old city hall)
    • “New” City hall (across from the old one)
    • Alter Marktplatz (connecting church and both city halls)
    • Schlosshofschule (on the grounds of the former Wasserburg)
  • Abend der Blasmusik (in May): is an ever more popular event that I used to be part of when I played in the local community band, called Feuerwehrkapelle (fire station band). I can’t say I was ever fan of the oom-pah music but I sure miss it these days! Check out this video of their 2018’s performance. Not that you’d know but I recognize at least three people I used to play with! One being my teacher!!
  • Kerwe (last weekend in August): Not typical for just Mörlenbach, there is a great explanation of what it is and why Germans celebrate it.
  • Neighboring towns along B38: Birkenau, Rimbach, Fürth

What’s the “B” in B38?

By the way, in case you’re wondering: “B” in B38 stands for “Bundesstrasse,” which simply designates who is paying for maintenance of the road. It does not define the size of the road and neither the length. Heading toward Mannheim, B38 is combined with the Autobahn “A659,” a four-lane divided highway. Other than that particular section, B38 is mostly a scenic, small, two-lane highway connecting smaller towns and villages within the Odenwald.

What’s the “Saukopftunnel”?

Another interesting tidbit: The Saukopftunnel was a decade-long project that was supposed to connect Weinheim with the Odenwald or the other way around. I guess it’s a matter of perspective.

It did not exist while I lived in out there between 1976 and 1998. Although it was done on the Baden-Württemberg side, it was heavily contested due to environmental concerns and didn’t move forward the whole time we lived out there.

My parents were aware of it in the late 70s and it was a major deciding factor as to why they decided to move out “in die Pampa” (out in the boonies). It was “common knowledge” that the tunnel would connect Mörlenbach with the rest of the world, making the commute to Mannheim more bearable.

Ironically, while my dad sometimes rode the distance of 28 km (about 17 miles) to Mannheim on his bike, none of us got to see the tunnel finished: After 21 years I moved to the US and a few years later, my parents sold their property.

What’s Mörlenbach’s history like?

Mörlenbach celebrated its 1225 year in January of 2020. It was first mentioned in 795 CE. Not much noteworthy happened until about the 13th century. Because of its location between two major players at the time (Weinheim and Lindenfels), the town gained some political power. Mörlenbach became home to a Wasserschloss (“water castle”). Unfortunately, that was mostly destroyed during the 30-year war.

After political agreements were made between those in power in Mainz and Pfalz in the 15th century, the town lost some of its military significance. This led to economic losses. Some of the castle and the surrounding walls that had secured the town were still in place in the 1950s. But shortly after, nothing was left because the site was used to build the new school (Schlosshofschule). The one that I attended in the 80s.


Want an article with more in depth info on Mörlenbach’s location, history, or nearby attractions? Drop me a line below or go to my contact page and let me know. And who knows! I just may feature your question/suggestion in my next post!


Wondering how to pronounce those German words? This link will give you some guidance on how to pronounce consonants, vowels, and more!

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